Hello and welcome to this section which I hope will prove helpful and informative.
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Above is the doll kit I have created from scratch. It is important to remember though, that each person can work in a different way to others, and simply develop their own style, for what works best for them.
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Doll Kits and Materials
There are many to choose from, and as the art of creating a reborn doll or baby is a really special craft, it requires some knowledge of sculpts by various artists, and definately keeping up with the latest doll kits available from the latest sculpts, if you are interested in turning your hobby into a small business.
Artistic ability is something that is obviously a desirable part of being a 'reborn doll artist', and many of those who have gravitated to this hobby, are usually artistically inclined anyway, but, having said that, many who try to make their first reborn will have a great time experimenting and may find they have great artistic talents ! You do need to have patience and a great desire to pay attention to detail, plus the ability to freely experiment and try different techniques, and not get too despondent in the early days when things don't go to plan, we have all had a disaster here and there. Just get the practicing part done and when you are satisfied that the quality of your work is good enough to be up to the high standards expected of reborn artists, re the realism part of the doll looking like a real baby, then you have arrived !!
Most of us work from a doll kit blank which is usually made from vinyl, or silicon mixed with vinyl, and consists of a head, and limbs. Occasionally there will be a cloth or doe suede body included in the kit, if that is how it was marketed, but generally in addition to buying your doll kit, you will also need to buy the cloth body, of which there are many styles. Some for 1/4 limbed dolls, some for 3/4, or even full limbs, the choice is there to pick the right body for your kit. Typically you can pay anywhere between £8 to £15 for the dolls body, depending on the supplier, and the quality. These cloth bodies are the part than can make a doll feel like a real baby to cuddle, if you fill and weight it right.
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Paints
There are a range of paints available that adhere to vinyl dolls. The most popular is I guess, Genesis heat set paints. These are oil based paints that can be thinned to watercolour consistency with odourless thinners. This paint then is applied in many thin layers of colours to create the real skin effect, and each layer is either baked on by putting the painted limbs into a domestic oven and heated at a certain temperature, for a set period of time to bake the paint pigment permenantly onto the vinyl. I personally prefer to use a heat gun, which is rather like a hair dryer, but 50 times hotter. You would not want to dry your hair with it thats for sure ! There has been some concern about the fumes these vinyl dolls give off when baked in an oven, let alone that you also probably use the same oven for cooking !
The heat gun is a perfectly good way to set the paints, and I prefer it as I can set areas in small patches or just keep moving the heat gun over larger areas to dry and set the paint. Either method seals the paints to the vinyl. Because of the oil in the vinyl, it is important to degrease a doll kit before applying paint, otherwise you will have a shiny slippery surface that you can't successfully work the paint onto and will just just go into beadlets just like water on a newly waxed car ! There are different ways to degrease the doll kit. The most used is probably the washing in hot soapy water. I do this, and follow with then rubbing all over with alcohol rub, which is then rinsed off again.
Painting
Once you have prepared your vinyl surfaces, the first layer or base coat of paint can be applied. It is important that the first coverage of paint is 100%, and that you get the paint into every little crease and dimple, as this is effectively creating a barrier of sorts to help stop any of the oil on the vinyl from seeping through. The rule of thumb is first coat of paint, or layer is 100% and the second layer 80% as you are usually adding a slightly darker skin tone, either using a sponge which is 'pouced' on or with a large brush,using the same pouncing technique. Both create the look of pores on the skin. The methods used vary from artist to artist. I use both sponges and different types of brushes to create the skin texture. The third layer is about 60% coverage which can either be a third skin tone, slightly darker still,(or the start of adding the blushing) which then creates the light and dark tones of skin, because skin is never all one colour. After this is all heat set (you heat set 1 layer at a time before applying the next layer), you can start adding veins that you want to have show through, on the head, wrists, ankles, under the feet, or where ever you like to put them. I usually paint these on with a fine brush, using a special blue paint tone, which I immediately dab with a small piece of sponge to soften the line , and it then blends with the effect of looking like it is under the skin.
I add all my tiny red capillaries (spidery red veins) at the end or the painting of the layers and after the blushing, with any other fine details, not at the blue vein stage.
Depending on the age of the baby, eg, preemie, or newly born, I will apply a very thin blue paint wash over all of the limbs and head. This is not something everyone does, but I find this to be a good technique to create a really realistic looking skin tone and has to be done very carefully, and must be extremely pale, because you could end up with a blue baby otherwise ! The reason for this is that it is so subtle, that it should only just be visible and apear like blue undertones to the skin, typically around and under the feet.
Giving all my secrets away !
PAINTING THE BASE COATS
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I use Genesis heat set paints to create the skin tones. In the above photo, you can just about see that there is a slight difference in tones. I have used two base coats at this stage. The first is a flesh colour which I have thinned down with odourless thinners, to make a mixture about the consistency of milk, very fluid, and is the lightest colour out of the two. You always work from light to dark with colours, not the other way around.
I start by dabbing on the paint with a large brush, followed by pouncing the colour over all the areas of the leg. It is important to cover all of the leg and all the other parts of the doll because this forms a base coat and seals the vinyl. I use a normal bathroom sponge (new obviously) and this has quite a nice texture which creates an effect like the pores of the skin. As I cover each part, I then heat set with my heat gun. I don't use an oven like some artists, I prefer to use my heat gun so that I have more control over the effects, and drying/setting of the paints. I will normally cover all linbs and the head with the same base paint colour. To make sure all areas are covered, especially in creases and between the fingers and toes, I will use a smaller bristle brush to spread the paint and dab into all crevices.
The second flesh tone is slightly darker, but the same consistency.This colour I will dab on and once again 'pounce' with my sponge, then dry with the heat gun, each section. It is easy to blend areas with such thin paint, and the art is to have the paint thin enough to have some of the other efects show through, hence the translucent skin layering effect. The second layer should only be about 80% coverage, so that in the areas I haven't dabbed any paint, this will create areas of light and dark, no matter how subtle.
Second base coat before heat setting on her head
8 The 2nd base coat of darker flesh colour.....notice the spacing between the earlier lighter coat of paint
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In the above photo you can clearly see the diference between the dry paint and the second layer not yet heat set.
Same with the rest of the limbs.
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Below is the colour I have used for the second layer. I use a porcelain pallette, (which is well used) as the best recepticle to use with odourless thinners. I use an eye dropper to administer the thinners to the paint I have put into the pallet section, and this gives greater control over how much I add.
Below are photos are of the two colours now heat set and dried. The difference is subtle and is intended to be. It varies with what effect you want to achieve, This baby is going to have fair skin, textured and with blushing, but if it were to be a darker skinned baby, or needed a very newborn look, I would make the contrast in colours much more noticable.
DRIED PAINTS
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As you can see in the above photos, the baby skin effect is beginning to show, and the shiny vinyl is now matt, and the baby pores of the skin become evident. (hard to photograph at this stage)
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Above is the sponge I use, having cut it into a smaller manageble size to pounce the paint, spreading the paint and creating the skin tone effect.You can see the varying patterns I can achieve by looking at the sponges surface.
The pallet is easily cleaned and is not going to disintegrate over time from the thinners. Glass, china, or porcelain are the best to use, as opposed to plastic which would be affected by the thinners.
Veins on the ankles, and extending under the foot.
To paint the veins, does take practice,and getting a natural looking vein pattern isn't easy, but it is one of the elements that adds realism.
Next I add more Blushing and skin tones to add a creamy look to the complexion. and this is a subtle stage again of adding slightly darker flesh tones, by dabbing on random areas of the paint, and blending whish creates a creamy flesh colour with a hint of the blush colour mixed into the paint. Once this has dried by heat setting, I usually leave for a couple of days for it to really harden and settle.
ROOTING THE HAIR
The hairstyle I want to end up with is a medium to thin in places typical baby style. I intend to leave some length on top so that the hair can be styled and curled a bit like the hair on the doll in the photo at the top of the page. The angora mohair am using is natural medium to light brown, not dyed, just thouroughly cleaned by the supplier and it is also naturally wavy. I usually get my favourite angora mohair from Susn Coyle in the USA. below is a picture of her wonderful goats and their superior coats. This is just to show you the natural wavyness. The colours on these goats if a gorgeous light blond type of colour in these pictures, but she does have other colours.
Rooting half way.
Below is a side view of the half rooted head of Rebecca. I am using the medium to light brown wavy hair. This hair curls a bit more when wet, and is a dream to style. It is one of Susan Coyles Angora's.
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The hair lengths I have deliberately left long as I will cut and style it at the finish. I have used a 42 guage needle which is very fine, and rooted the hairs one or two at a time. I am not following the traditional 'typical' tutorial type processes, I am blocking in areas of the hair style as I picture it to be and how it lays. The hair needs to be directionally rooted in the direction you want the hair to naturally comb. I have been rooting for some time, so I have made up some styles and methods of my own, and wouldn't recommend that a novice try my methods.
Finished Hair More pictures
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Eyebrows, Eyelids, and Eyelashes
After I have finished her hair, I will paint the final colours and details such as veins on her eyelids. I deliberately leave this detail until last because of the handling I do of the dolls head
whilst rooting the hair, it just means it looks fresher at the end. The lips I usually finish off the full effect at the end too, along with the nails, and any last minute detailing to the skin tones, and tiny red veins if appropriate on the cheeks.
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Assembling the doll.
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Once all the painting is finished, and the varnish has set on lips, and nails, it's time to put baby together. I usually fill the head first, making sure that all the glue I spread around the inside of the head to keep the hair from falling out, has completely dried and set.The magnets are in place. In this case she has one for her hair decoration and one for a dummy or paci. I use either E6000 glue for the hair which is industrial strength,waterproof, non-flammable, and paintable glue. Or I use Aleene's original tacky glue. For sticking in the magnets I use Super glue, taking GREAT care not to stick my fingers to the magnet !!
I fill the head first with the soft fibrefil, and if I did open the nostrils, I usually back the holes with a small patch of dark fabric (usually black). If not I paint the inside of the nostrils very carefully in a darker pink color and perhaps a touch of dark purply-black right at the back to give the illusion of depth.
I then make up a bag to fill with the micro glass granules. Everyone is different.Some artists make a cotton bag, and others use those polythene bags. I use new clean tights ! I find I can cut a length from the leg of the tights to whatever size I think I need, and usually double layer by putting another length inside the first one. I tie a tight knot at one end, and push the bag with knot in first inside the head leaving the open end about an inch out of the neck opening. I will fill the bag part which is sitting inside the head until I feel the head is just the right weight for the size and proportion of the doll. Once filled, I tie a knot in open end and then push this inside the head. Placing the now filled bag in the middle of the head, I will then continue to fill and pack the soft fibrefil around the bag and into all crevices of the head. Finishing by completely covering the weighted bag, and ending up with only fibrefill showing at the neck opening.It's important that the head is well filled, and there are no hollow bits. Depending on your method of sealing off the end of the neck, what ever you do, it must be secure enough to keep everything in place. In this dolls case I used a plastic insert specially made to plug up the hole.
The arms and legs, I just pour the micro glass granules straight into the limbs. These granules are as fine as sand, and will even fill up the fingers ! I usually fill 3/4 full then pack up to the opening with soft fibrefil. If you fill the whole limb, it is way too heavy. Again use a plug of your choice to seal the end.
The body is also filled in the same fashion as the head, making a bigger bag to hold the granules. This time I try to get the bag of granules to sit in the bottom area, but packed with fibrefill too. Sometimes, depending on how heavy the doll has to be, I will place a second bag of weighting nearer the tummy region. The body should weigh heavier than the limbs, but not disproportionately so. Then I attach the head and limbs to the body with narrow cable ties, (I prefer the narrow ones, as they can be concealed more easily, but it does depend on what was supplied with the body which you normally buy separately). With Rebecca, there was a soft white body supplied. I stuff some fibrefill in the arm top part, before attaching the arms, just enough to make her 'shoulders'. The legs were almost full limbs, and there was only a small part to fill as you can see in the picture below.
I don't overfill the body because it is more realistic to have a 'floppy' baby doll, than an over stuffed rigid one, unless you are making a doll you want to have sitting up straight.
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You can just see Rebecca's tummy plate in the background.
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She is now ready to be dressed !
I usually have an outfit planned to suit her character. Generally dress the baby doll to suit her colouring or age.
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Finishing touches
'Rebecca's Photo Debut'
Her hair is nicely styled.
PLEASE NOTE...........
ONLINE CLASSES WILL BE UP AND RUNNING SOON.......ON HOW TO MAKE A REBORN DOLL
PLEASE CHECK BACK ON MY HOMEPAGE FOR MORE DETAILS AND MY ANNOUNCEMENT FOR WHEN AND HOW YOU CAN JOIN !
All photography copyright of Lillian Evans.
If you wish to use any of my images for commercial purposes, please contact me first. Thank you